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Unlike static ropes, which cannot stretch, dynamic ropes are designed to try during a fall, absorbing energy and significantly decreasing the impact force on the climber. This makes them the clear choice for climbing and mountaineering activities.
The strength of a dynamic rope is measured by how many standard test falls it can sustain before breaking. However, real-world climbing scenarios have additional shock-absorbing elements that need to be considered in these tests.
Choosing The Right Rope
Whether you are starting to rock climb or want to take it up a notch, you will need a dynamic rope like the ones at Sgt. Knots. These ropes stretch and ease the force of a fall, protecting your belayer and gear from serious injury.
Choosing a suitable rope can be confusing. There are a lot of different features to look at, like diameter, length, static and dynamic elongation, fall rating, middle mark, dry treatment, and more. Understanding how these factors relate to each other and what type of climbing you will do can help narrow your options.
Most climbers today use kern mantle ropes, which are made with an inner core (“kern”) wrapped in a woven sheath (“mantle”). The core provides strength, while the sheath protects the rope from damage and debris. Ropes are rated based on how many falls they can handle and their impact force. The UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations) tests and certifies all dynamic ropes; the ratings are independent of the manufacturer.
Strength
Dynamic ropes are built with enough elasticity to cushion your fall and reduce the impact force. This makes you safer in climbing activities with a higher risk of injury.
All UIAA-certified climbing ropes are built with a core and sheath, made by twisting or braiding synthetic fibers to create a durable material. The sheath protects the core from dirt, moisture, and other hazards. When shopping for a dynamic rope, look for information on the UIAA test results for safety standards like fall rating, static elongation, and dynamic elongation. The UIAA tests are done by independent labs designed to mimic the forces encountered in real-world climbing situations. The results are then used to compare the performance of the various ropes. The highest-performing strands are used in kernmantel ropes. You want to choose these for rock climbing, rappelling, and equipment hauling.
Elongation
When choosing a rope for rock climbing, you want to pick a dynamic one. This is because dynamic ropes are designed to stretch and absorb a fall, protecting climbers from high-impact forces that could lead to injuries or anchor system failure.
The dynamic elongation of a climbing rope is measured by the amount it stretches during the UIAA drop test. The ideal dynamic rope will stretch to no more than 31% of its original length.
A good dynamic rope will also have excellent durability. This is thanks to the combination of nylon fiber that naturally stretches and can handle high twist rates without losing its dynamic properties. This helps extend the rope’s life and reduce abrasion, allowing extended, consistent use for all your climbing needs. The longer a rope lasts, the more value you get for your money.
Durability
Ask any climber, and they will tell you that the durability of a rope is one of the most critical factors in their choice. Ropes are a climber’s lifeline and can be expensive to replace, so they must hold up well.
The durability of a rope is measured by how long the rope can stretch before it is considered worn out. This is determined by a UIAA drop test that drops 80 kg of weight on the rope. These tests create harsh, 1.77-factor falls, and we have yet to see a UIAA-approved climbing rope fail from these forces.
Dynamic ropes have a high amount of elasticity, which allows them to absorb more of the impact force of a climber’s fall. This decreases the peak force and increases the chances that the rope can catch a fall before it causes injury or even death to the climber. The kern mantle core of the rope provides this elasticity in combination with higher rotational speeds. On the other hand, static ropes have low elongation and are typically made of nylon with lower twist rates in the core bundles.
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